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WHY GO: If you’ve been to Washington DC before, you’ve probably visited the Monuments, the Capitol Building, the White House – and presumably the more popular Smithsonian Museums.
But there are new and other lesser known institutions – like the Museum of African American History, Museum of the American Indian, Museum of the Bible, a new Spy Museum, the Library of Congress, and Museum of Women in the Arts, that have either been miles off your radar or impossible to get into.
Spring, and the blooming Cherry Trees and their lush, pink blossoms, draw crowds to Washington DC every year. Come in late March and early April, and you’ll be in plenty of company. To buck the crowds and gain access to the more popular attractions, come off-season – in winter or dead of summer.
New, Notable, or Under The Radar in Washington DC
“The NMAAHC is a tougher ticket than Hamilton,” I was told, before embarking on a three-day trip to DC. Good thing I was persuasive, and it was just little ole me – who wouldn’t take up too much space at the opening bell on an early April morning. But FYI for everyone else – if you plan to go, sign up for a Pass on the NMAAHC website.
And, no wonder. This is an exceptional museum, with plenty on exhibit, and plenty to unpack; from somber to razzle-dazzle. Plus, it’s chatty as all get out. While the Holocaust Museum stuns visitors into silence, this museum has the opposite effect.
Sparking Intergenerational Conversations
Every section sparks conversation, admiration, motivation, reaction, and reflection in those who move through its many halls. While the darkest and most challenging aspects of Black history are not glossed over, more attention is paid to the achievements and strong communities of the African American experience.
It begins in the hold of a Slave Ship, in a subterranean part of the museum three levels below the basement floor, accessed by a glass elevator.
Dark and dimly lit, the roots of slavery in America start here. Moving from the American Revolution to the Civil War; President Lincoln, Frederick Douglas; Reconstruction leading to Segregation and Jim Crow, to the Civil Rights Movement.
Near the display showcasing a lunch counter stool from the 1960 Greensboro Sit In, I overheard a Mom tells her two young sons, “If you know the difference between right and wrong, you can make a change…you can start a movement.” They listened raptly – seeds for future leadership firmly planted. I heard these kinds of conversations throughout the museum.
As you climb the ramps, watch for a sign showing the way to the “Contemplative Court.” Don’t miss it. An upside-down fountain raining from the ceiling in a vast room, the installation is Martin Luther King’s “justice runs down like water,” made manifest.
It might take a couple of hours just to get through the lower level history sections, but there are four other floors to explore. And each easily takes an hour or more to see. From Tubman to Winfrey, Douglas to Obama – A Changing America points to Black Is Beautiful and Black Power of the 60’s as pivotal movements.
Another floor engages kids and adults with ‘The Step Show,” a hip hop instructional and interactive dance class. The “Choose Your Route” as a “Negro Tourist” in 1962 exhibit invites you to attempt a road trip across America. You must choose either to eat in a restaurant or sleep in a hotel that will allow Blacks. But not both. It’s a sobering exercise in Jim Crow restrictions.
The third floor consists of the “Community” galleries – Foundations of Faith, Military, Education, Medicine, and Sports.
These displays illuminate the extremes of African American life, from the high-society Black “cottagers” in Oak Bluffs on Martha’s Vineyard (since the late 1800’s), to the originators of Hip Hop in the struggling Bronx. There’s a section on “Game Changers:” Jesse Owens, Arthur Ashe, Venus and Serena Williams, Mohammad Ali, Michael Jordan, Tiger Woods and other household names in the sporting world.
You’ll want to devote at least an hour to the top floor – the Culture Galleries, starting with “Foodways” of various communities.
Take your time in the maze of rooms that feature a wiz-bang collection of the greats in TV, Hollywood, Theater, Dance, and Music. The P-Funk “Mothership” concert prop and Chuck Berry’s Eldorado figure prominently. Museum open daily 10-5:30. Timed pass necessary – booking three months out.
Those who relish books and iconic artifacts will not want to miss a free hour-long tour of the Library of Congress. The oldest cultural institution of the US Government, and home of the U.S. Copyright Office, I guarantee that you will be inspired and entranced by the our Nation’s Library, which holds billions of words and more literary treasures than any other library in the world.
Library of Congress Holdings That Will Blow Your Mind
Those include the 1502 “Book of Privileges” by Christopher Columbus, the 1632 book written by Galileo that led to his condemnation by the Church, the oldest Koran in existence, one of 4 maps, wrinkled with use, carried by Lewis and Clark on their American expedition, a first printing of the Declaration of Independence, the first video of a football game in 1903 – Yale vs. Princeton – and a $5 Confederate bill found in Abraham Lincoln’s pocket on the eve of his assassination.
The Library of Congress has in its archives over 167 million items, with 12,000 added per day.
The Library of Congress Jefferson Building was constructed from 1889-1897 in the Italian Renaissance style at a cost of $6.5 million – a fortune at the time.
It’s central court is palace-like in its lavishness: stained glass ceiling, compass rose inlayed floor, and two sweeping marble staircases that ascend to a viewing gallery into the Main Reading Room.
This is where you’ll find Elihu Vedder’s murals depicting the consequences of Good and Bad Governments, comparing corrupt self-interested leaders with those who govern for all, leading to anarchy vs. prosperity.
You can see the Capitol Building through the windows. In fact, when the Capital of our new country was moved to Washington DC, Congress recognized the need for a research library. The first, containing 740 books and 3 maps, was installed in 1800 in the Capitol Building – in what is now Mitch McConnell’s office.
Thomas Jefferson’s Library
These initial books were destroyed when the Brits torched DC’s public buildings in August 1814. In 1815, Thomas Jefferson sold his complete 6,487-book library to the Library of Congress (for $23,950) and it was reborn.
Now, Jefferson’s original library is on exhibit for all to see. Though 3/5ths of his books were destroyed in a 1850’s fire, some (marked by green ribbons) survived. Others are exact copies of those that burned, and still others are being sought to complete his collection.
Our guide was keen to show us another little known remnant of history – hidden in an exhibit wing behind one of the temporary displays: “The Birth Certificate of America.” It’s a 1506 World Map, drawn by a German monk who inked as accurate a depiction of the world as could be imagined in the 16th Century.
While the continents of Africa and Europe are relatively spot-on, the New World is drawn as thin as a Finger Lake, stretching from extreme North to South.
Look closely though, and you’ll see what is now South America labeled simply “America.” It’s the first known document on which that name appears. Open 8:30-4:30. The free tour is worth an hour of your time, every hour on the half hour from 9:30-3:30.
It could be hokey. It could be cartoonish. And yes, it has some elements of both. But you may leave the International Spy Museum trusting no one, due to some revealing and shocking unclassified information, including the Russian use of nerve gas (hidden in cylinder wrapped in a newspaper) to eliminate double agents. From the 1950’s!
Also on view, dog poop surveillance, gadgets and weapons that 007 could only dream of, pigeons equipped with cameras (our first drones), a car cleaved in half showing how escapees from Communist countries contorted themselves under engines and in wheel wells for hours, and so much more.
Recently reopened in larger digs, this museum illustrates the “Tradecraft” of spying, with video interviews of those who were once in the “game.” Yesterdays Spymasters included Moses, Harriet Tubman, and George Washington: all relied on intelligence to lead. Open daily – check website for hours, usually 9 or 10 until 6 or 7, $22.95 adults, $14.95 kids.
Though this incredibly moving museum is often overlooked in the constellation of Smithsonian Museums, it shouldn’t be. Highlighting the indigenous natives who were here before the first Europeans arrived, original Americans are given their due here.
Representing 12,000 years and hundreds of tribes throughout North and South America, the exhibits and collections can be overwhelming.
Our initial contact with Native Americans was promising, represented by the “Two Row Wampum Belt” that embodied insight on how different Nations could co-exist.
In 1790, George Washington offered the Seneca Nation “security” for their lands. “The government will not consent to you being defrauded. But it will protect you in all your just rights.”
Bloody Bloody Andrew Jackson
A mere 40 years later, in 1830, “bloody, bloody” Andrew Jackson, signed the Indian Removal Act, justifying the removal of over 67,000 American Indians from their land with these words: “They have neither the intelligence, the industry, the moral habits, nor the desire of improvement which are essential to any change in their position. Without appreciating the causes of their inferiority or seeking to control them, they must yield to the force of circumstance and ere disappear.”
This expulsion, leading to the Trail of Tears, represented one of our country’s darkest measures. Still, today, Native Americans are attempting to return to the ideals of the Wampum Belt. Be sure to have lunch in Mitsitam – the Native Foods Café on the main floor – featuring representative dishes from a variety of regions in the USA. It’s one of the best meals in town. Open daily 10-5:30, free.
No big surprise that women have been underrepresented in most of the world’s venerable Art Museums. The National Museum of Women in the Arts, opened in 1987, sought to rectify that, as the only museum in the world dedicated to women’s creative contributions.
You’ll find the bold renderings of Frida Kahlo, women’s genitalia from Judy Chicago, 18th Century portraits done by Elisabeth Louise Vigee-LeBrun, the scribbles of Elaine de Kooning, sculptures by Sarah Bernhardt, and so much more on four floors.
The NMWA is situated in a stunning 1908 Classical Revival –originally built as a Mason Temple. At the time, the Masons, ironically, did not allow women as members. Open Mon-Sat 10-5, Sun 12-5, $10.
VISIT: Museum of The Bible.
This relatively new museum (opened November 2017) focuses on one of the Best Selling books in the world – the Bible. Walk through 40 ft tall bronze doors, emblazoned with text from the Guttenberg Bible, into a soaring hall with a 140 ft. digital ceiling, pay the suggested $15 donation, and head up to the 5th floor to start your tour, beginning with ancient artifacts unearthed in Israel.
On the 4th floor, wander through The History of the Bible Exhibit, where a babble of voices in Hebrew and English waft through the air.
Scan a dizzying array of relics, signage, and quotes from both the Hebrew Torah and New Testaments. Though all forms of the Bible are displayed (you can watch a Torah Scroll being inscribed by a Rabbi who has set up his desk in the museum), this institution does have a slight bent towards the Christian version of the Good Book.
The most popular “exhibits” are actually 30-minute multi-media walk-through experiences. Lines to enter form early. One revolves around the stories from the “Old Testament – the “Tanakh.” It employs blazing white light for the “G-d said let there be light” opening scene, and other exciting sensory experiences that add pizzazz to the Burning Bush, Ten Plagues, and splitting of the Red Sea.
Two other walk-through experiences incorporate the New Testament and “The World of Jesus of Nazareth.” The 2nd floor exhibits focus on the impact that the Bible has had on music, fashion, government and American Culture. Open daily 10-6, $15 suggest donation.
Washington DC Hotels
STAY: Watergate Hotel
There’s never been a hotel so fraught with figurative baggage, so memorable in its role in the takedown of an American Presidency, as The Watergate Hotel in Washington DC.
The suffix, “gate,” in fact, has applied to every scandal since, traced back to this newly renovated and mod-sexy hotel on the Potomac River. Yes, Richard Nixon ordered the “hacking” of the office of the Democratic National Committee (DNC) during the 1972 Presidential Campaign; a burglary of hard-copy files that now seems downright quaint in light of current breaches in our nation’s cyber-security.
Interestingly, the new and improved Watergate, a Washington DC luxury hotel a five minute walk from the Kennedy Center, does not hide its notorious history: It celebrates it with a sense of humor – and therein lies its vast appeal. That and the fact that the whole place glistens with groovy 60’s architectural elements and stylish rooms. The Watergate is, according to its new tagline, “Unapologetically Luxurious.”
First Impressions of the Watergate Hotel
The Watergate Hotel blends seamlessly into the curvilinear Watergate Complex. This six-building compound in the Foggy Bottom neighborhood of DC was conceived and constructed in the Mad Men 1960’s.
Standing in the hotel lobby is akin to being inside a golden Slinky; coils of gold everywhere – as reception desk base, on support columns. It’s quite the snazzy décor, mirroring the exterior of the surrounding buildings. This curvaceous motif continues into the lobby’s Next Whisky Bar – separated from incoming guests by a glowing wall of bottles the color of flaxen hair. The Midas Touch abounds.
Employees are on the ball, friendly and efficient – but must move you along quickly. The place crawls with well-heeled guests, no doubt a certain morbid curiosity at play. But really, there is nothing morbid about the current hotel, a Legend in the Preferred Hotels and Resorts of the World group. It’s a stunner.
Rooms at the Watergate Hotel
Some guestroom dimensions might be on the small side, but the impact is large, especially if you ask for a room with balcony overlooking the Potomac River.
The coil motif continues into the rooms, on leather bed backboards and 70’s leather chairs. Each white duvet is warmed up with a grey houndstooth throw.
Bathrooms are dramatically masculine. They feature with huge rain showers,black marble floors and sink, and grey and white striped marble tiled walls.
There’s a mod-sexy grouping of cocktail glasses on a side table, a flat screen TV, and all the modern amenities that a luxury hotel can throw at you.
But, here’s the fun part. Bedside tables look like filing cabinets (haha). The complimentary pencils are stamped, I stole this from the Watergate Hotel. And room key cards read, No need to break in.
For a once in a lifetime kick – reserve the “Scandal Room 214″
According to The Watergate’s website:
On June 17, 1972, E. Howard Hunt and G. Gordon Liddy, who helmed The Watergate break-in team, stationed themselves in The Watergate Hotel’s room 214. They used the room to monitor the burglary at the Democratic National Committee in the Watergate Complex office building, next to the hotel. This room has been decorated in collaboration with Lyn Paolo, the costume designer for Scandal, and contains items from the Watergate Scandal period.
A record player with 45 singles, binoculars, a manual typewriter, a reel-to-reel tape recorder, curated book collection and several pieces of furniture serve as a throwback to the 1970s. Modern amenities are also included– a 48″ flat screen TV with episodes of Scandal available for viewing. A spa-like bathroom with La Bottega amenities and two “Cover Up” robes to enjoy during your stay.
Food and Drink at the Watergate Hotel
The in-house Next Whisky Bar, Kingbird, and Top of the Gate all offer food and drink. Top of the Gate is the place to be for summer sunsets, affording far off views of the Washington Monument.
Watergate Hotel Amenities
Rooms and suites from $225 per night for smallest room on summer weekends. Over $3,000 for a Diplomat 2-bedroom family suite. The Scandal Suite from $1,199 per night.
STAY: Embassy Row Hotel
Embassy Row Hotel sits on a mansion-lined street 84 steps from DuPont Circle in Washington DC.
In 2015, Embassy Row was renovated, spiffed up and modernized. It now merits an esteemed place both physically and opinion-wise in the Washington DC constellation of top hotels.
Named one of USA Today’s Top 10 New Hotels in the country, the Embassy Row Hotel (not to be confused with Embassy Suites) is an independently owned, funky and singular property.
The 231-room Embassy Row draws guests and non-guests to its off-the-lobby Station Kitchen & Cocktails for artisanal coffee and locally sourced bites by day and drinks at night, and to the Rooftop for sunrise/sunset Yoga, a swim in the heated pool and, on occasion, “Silent Disco” which has to be seen to be believed.
First Impressions of Embassy Row Hotel
The not-so-subtle lobby is imbued with all the winning elements of a contemporary boutique hotel. Blue “egg” throne-shaped chairs, canary yellow banquettes, and clusters of cool seating with sculptural silver coffee tables invite conversation.
Black cut-paper silhouettes behind the reception desk pop on a bright teal wall. As befitting the location, most are of US Presidents. Your first fun task is to pick out the one that is not.
Check-in at said desk is quick, casual and friendly, with a familiarity that might throw off guests used to a more staid and corporate greeting. This independently owned hotel is as far from “corporate” as it gets.
Embassy Row considers itself a “platform for emerging artists.” Owners enlisted local graffiti master, Mas Paz, to enliven the stairwell that goes up to the Rooftop.
And they hired Kelly Towles to blanket the elevators on the 2nd floor. (That’s where you’ll also find the Adult Playground; a large state of the art fitness center, ping pong tables, foosball and a shuffleboard).
Downstairs, what first appears to be a stunning library is actually a business center. You’ll find plenty of outlets, seating, and computers paired with printers for hotel guests.
Rooms at Embassy Row Hotel
All 231 rooms are the same shape and size. Nicely appointed, with nearly-floor to ceiling windows and in soothing shades of gray and eye-popping teal, the somewhat small space (with even smaller bathrooms) feels larger than it is.
In the morning, from your bed, you can watch the sun illuminate the magisterial Indonesian and Portuguese Embassies across the street. Rooms $160 – $380 depending on day of week and time of year.
Washington DC Getaway Guides:
- Washington DC For Second Timers
- Best Hotels Near NYC, Boston, and Washington DC
- See Maryland and/or Virginia for nearby destinations.