Chincoteague VA; Ponies, Rockets and The Friendliest People

WHY GO: It sure isn’t for the nightlife.  There is none here, which of course is part of its appeal.  Chincoteague VA is the best known of all the towns on Virginia’s quiet Eastern Shore thanks to the 1945 book “Misty of Chincoteague,” which brought awareness of the wild ponies on Assateague Island to the world.

But while most people know about the horses, many are not aware that this is also a NASA hotspot. Supplies for the International Space Station are shot into orbit within pony’s eye view on NASA’s Wallop’s Island – an electrifying aspect of this most Southern region of the Delmarva (Delaware, Maryland, Virginia) Peninsula.

Bottle of Chincoteague Wild Pony Blanc

And for whatever reason, the people of the Eastern Shore are inherently nice. This area is known for its genuinely kind, friendly and laid-back residents who will restore your faith in humanity, not to mention lower your blood pressure.  Meet them, and you’ll be planning your next trip back pronto.

Chincoteague is on our list of 20 Surprisingly Romantic Getaways in VA. Check it out if you wish to explore the state further.

Looking for someplace dreamy outside of Virginia? Check out our 150 Best Romantic Getaways in the Northeast US (Virginia to Maine).

Best Things to Do In Chincoteague VA

Wild horses in Chincoteague VA

FIND: Wild Ponies

Admit it.  This is what you came here for.  According to Captain Dan (of Capt. Dan’s Around the Island Tours – see below), two of the best places to find the wild ponies are “1) across the fence line on Beach Rd. between the lighthouse and the Woodland Trail on Assateague Island, and 2) on a hike up the Woodland Trail on the Wild Pony Overlook – sometimes the ponies are loose right on the path.”

The barrier island of Assateague extends from Maryland to Virginia and each state has its own policies regarding the wild animals. On the Virginia side, 150 little horses are actually “vetted” a few times a year– veterinarians make sure they are healthy and well fed.

Every July with much fanfare, the ponies are cajoled (by “saltwater cowboys”) to swim across a small channel to Chincoteague. There, the foals are penned and then auctioned off (for an average $1,600) as fundraiser for the Volunteer Fire Department.

Misty and Stormy of Chincoteague VA, "artfully preserved"

VISIT: Museum of Chincoteague

At the entrance of Assateague Island Refuge, this small museum is the resting place of “artfully preserved” Misty and her foal, Stormy.

It can be somewhat jarring to see these famous ponies taxidermied stock-still forever. Less jarring, but equally impressive are the dozen pair of stuffed of waterfowl – so rare a collection that artists come in to sketch them.

This museum is worth a few minutes of your time to understand the history of the area, from Native Americans to shipwrecks to Seafood and Oyster industry. And, of course, to see Misty. Open Tues-Sun. 11am-5pm, $4.

BOAT TOUR: Captain Dan’s Around the Island Boat Tours

The boat may be small and carry only six people at a time, but all’s the better on this intimate three hour circumnavigation of Chincoteague Island.

Passing Assateague and NASA-managed Wallop’s Island, you’ll see oyster beds (famous Chincoteague Oysters are particularly salty due to the brine content here), an aquaculture facility, and learn about the annual pony swim.

Captain Dan Chincoteague VA

It takes 5 minutes for ponies to cross the very narrow channel from Assateague to Chincoteague – a width that’s just a few times the wing-span of an NBA star.  Yet despite the brevity of the event, an estimated 30,000-50,000 tourists inundate the area annually to watch it.

Sun sets behind floating house Captain Dans Boat Tour Chincoteague VA

Visitors routinely see Bald Eagles, dolphins, cormorants and other wildlife during Captain Dan’s tour. But on May 21, 2012, while hovering near the Assateague shoreline, Dan’s guests were privy to a once-in-a-lifetime experience: they observed Carnival Baby give birth to her first foal.

“The process took about 5 minutes – starting at 5pm, completed at 5:05, mother up 5:10, foal up at 5:17, walking 5:28, nursing at 5:40.”

Tours go out multiple times a day from April to Nov. $40, adults $35 kids. Though you might see ponies throughout the day, the Mavens prefer sunset, which allows for the most dramatic photography.

NASA Wallops Flight Facility, Chincoteague VA

VISIT: NASA Wallops Visitor Center

Driving up the rural road from Route 13 to Chincoteague, you’ll see an abundance of massive satellite dishes: certainly not the pastoral low-tech pony-rich landscape you were expecting.

Satellite dishes on Road to Chincoteague VA
Road to Chincoteague VA

Established in 1945, Wallops Island is one of the world’s oldest rocket launch sites. It is now home to NASA’s Suborbital Vehicle activities.

The Visitor’s Center is small but compact, and introduces you to a part of the Space Program that most Americans don’t even know exists. Tuesday- Saturday 10-4 from September- June, daily 10-4 in July and August, FREE.

Wallops Flight Facility, Chincoteague VA

WATCH: Rocket Launch

If you time it right, you can watch history being made.  Pretend you’re in Florida, and you can see a payload heading up to the International Space Station in all of its “bone-jarring sound and majesty.”  For launch dates, go to

SHOP: Wine, Coffee, and Gourmet

Pick up a bottle of Chincoteague Wild Pony Blanc for a pony-viewing picnic or rocket-launch dinner. Owners takes joy in recommending other esoteric wines, and also sell gourmet food, premium cigars and everything you need for a delightful DIY meal. 

Best Restaurants in Chincoteague VA

Woody's Chincoteague VA

EAT: Woody’s Outdoor BBQ and Eatery

You can’t miss the shack with the peace sign on the roof. Owners call their fare, “slow food. We care how it’s prepared, where it comes from and how food impacts the world.”

Everything is fresh and made from scratch in this outdoor picnic table place. Innovative concoctions include “Pork & Sea” – a sandwich of pork topped with red sauce and onion rings and The Clipper; chicken, pork, “bacon jam,” slaw and rum sauce.  Nirvana.

Sea Star Cafe, Chincoteague VA

EAT: Sea Star

Another casual fresh, foodie take-out place. You can custom-design your own sandwiches or order Vegan, Vegetarian or Classic Café and Croissant Sandwiches – all for around $6-$7.

Bill's Seafood, Chincoteague, VA

EAT: Bill’s Seafood

Chincoteague is best at casual dining, but if you’d like a spot of wine, a cocktail and better-dressed patrons, follow tradition and order the Flounder Dinner at Bill’s Seafood.  It’s been on the menu since 1960.  Then, conclude with the multi-layer chocolate cake.  Decadent.

Island Creamery, Chincoteague VA

TREAT/ICE CREAM: Island Creamery

Voted one of Top 5 Ice-Cream shops in Virginia, the cold sweet stuff is rich, creamy and entirely awesome. You’ll be thinking of the next flavor as soon as you polish off the first cone.

Best Places to Stay in Chincoteague VA

Channel Bass Inn Chincoteague VA
Channel Bass Inn Chincoteaque VA

STAY: Channel Bass Inn

Kristan and William Allman are the new owners and Innkeepers of the Channel Bass Inn, bringing decades of food and hospitality experience to this pretty inn.

Channel Bass is decidedly Victorian. It’s got antiques, quilted bedding, polished wood floors and a lovingly tended large English Garden out back.

Breakfast, of course, is wonderful. But the Allmans have added dinner service as well on select nights. Rates from $135-$260/night. Includes four course gourmet breakfast, water and soft drinks, use of bicycles, beach towels, beach chairs.

Hampton Inn Chincoteague VA

STAY: Hampton Inn and Suites

If you’re looking for a full-service hotel, the cheery waterfront Hampton Inn is a sure bet. Rates range from “waterview” offseason double, $79, to “waterfront” prime season suite $289, includes continental breakfast. 

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  • Malerie Yolen-Cohen

    Malerie Yolen-Cohen is the Author of the cross-country travel guide, Stay On Route 6; Your Guide to All 3562 Miles of Transcontinental Route 6. She contributes frequently to Newsday, with credits in National Geographic Traveler, Ladies Home Journal, Yankee Magazine,, Sierra Magazine, Porthole, Paddler, New England Boating, Huffington Post, and dozens of other publications. Malerie’s focus and specialty is Northeastern US, and she is constantly amazed by the caliber of restaurants and lodging in the unlikeliest places.

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