Before Queens NY, there was Sicily: a mishmash of cultures and conquerors since the dawn of recorded time. Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, Arabs, and Normans – among others – left their mark on this land: the largest island in the Mediterranean Sea.
It was only in 1861, when the Kingdom was unified, that Sicily became part of Italy. In 1946, following World War II, Sicily was granted the status of an autonomous region within the Republic of Italy.
And so, you’ll find Greek and Roman Temples, splendiferous Churches, an active volcano, excellent restaurants and wineries, homespun cooking classes, and, of course, some Godfather movie sites. What are the highlights? Read our suggestions below. We recommend at least 8-10 days to explore the whole Italian island.
Top 20 Things to Do in Sicily
VISIT: Norman Palace, UNESCO World Heritage Site, Palermo
The Norman Palace, showcasing the Palatine Chapel and Palermo Cathedral, is an Arab-Norman masterpiece of glittering gold mosaics and Moorish design. First constructed by the Arabs in the 800’s A.C.E, it was expanded and modified over the centuries by Norman and then Spanish rulers.
VISIT: Monreale Cathedral, Monreale
A short drive from Palermo, the centerpiece of this hilltop village is the Monreal Cathedral, also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This imposing house of worship contains a multitude of styles and cultural elements: from Nordic to Byzantine to Arabic. Adorned with floor to ceiling sparkling mosaics, crafted by artisans from Constantinople, depicting biblical scenes and geometric patterns in a soaring space, you’ll hear audible gasps from those who first enter this cathedral – perhaps from your own mouth!
TOUR: Selinunte Archaeological Park, Selinunte
On the southwestern coast of Sicily, Selinunte Archaeological Park stands as a testament to the grandeur of ancient Greek civilization. Founded in the mid 600’s BCE by Greek colonists from Megara Hyblaea, the city became one of the richest Greek colonies in Sicily, rivalling the great metropolises of the time. Gape at the Temple of Hera and the Temple of Apollo, set against the backdrop of the azure Mediterranean Sea. Learn how these monuments were constructed without modern day tools – certainly an engineering marvel of its day.
EAT/DRINK: Wine Tasting and Paired Lunch at Planeta Ulmo Winery
Book a wine tasting lunch at Planeta Ulmo, a top Sicilian winery located in the countryside surrounding the Lake Arancio. In a fortified farmhouse surrounded by vineyards, olive groves and nature, you’ll no doubt want to ship a case or two of the wines you taste home. Yes, they are that good. But the olive oil – also produced here – was a revelation. It made every morsel of food sing.
PHOTO OP: Turkish Steps, Scala dei Turchi
The wind-sculpted snow-white Turkish Steps on the coast of Realmonte, near Porto Empedocle, are made of marl, a soft, sedimentary rock composed of clay and lime. This terraced rock formation along striking white cliffs overlooking the sea has become a tourist darling. No need to risk your limbs climbing down its precarious rock face: the vantage point at street level is imposing enough.
TOUR: Valley of the Temples and Agrigento Archaeological Museum, Agrigento
The Valley of the Temples, a UNESCO site and archaeological zone whose ruins of Doric temples and sanctuaries date to Greek rule in the 5th century BCE, was known in its heyday as the “most beautiful city of mortals.”
Agrigento was one of the leading cities during the Golden Age of ancient Greece. At its eastern zone, see the beautifully preserved Temple of Concordia (c. 430 BCE). The Western zone features the massive temple of Olympian Zeus, believed to be the largest Doric temple ever built.
Afterwards, visit Agrigento Archaeological Museum, featuring exhibits and artifacts that tell the story of this outpost of classical Greece. Don’t leave without seeing the gigantic, reconstructed statue of Atlas ( the colossal Telamon). There were a total 36 of these monsters holding up the upper half of the temple’s exterior walls, which gives you a good idea of the size of the Temple of Zeus. Almost inconceivable.
TOUR: Roman Villa del Casale, Close to Piazza Armerina
Visit Villa Romana del Casale, an elaborate 4th-century CE villa and UNESCO site boasting one of the richest and largest collections of mosaics in the Roman world, including the 1,700 year old “Bikini Girls” mosaic.
Thanks to having been buried by landslides, the villa, its vivid frescoes, and the more than 3,200 square feet of mosaics survived the millennia in remarkably good shape. Take a tour and learn who those barely clad girls were, as well as juicy stories about the Villa’s high-ranking owner.
VISIT: The Town of Caltagirone
Famous for its high-quality ceramics, Caltagirone’s cobbled streets lead you past shops crammed with vibrant hand-painted ceramics that also adorn balconies, staircases, and storefronts.
Don’t forget to climb the monumental Staircase of Santa Maria del Monte, adorned with ceramic-tiled patterns. It rises from a lower street to a higher one, where you’ll be rewarded with panoramic views of the town.
VISIT: Modica, Chocolate and Churches
The town of Modica is embedded into the Sicilian hillside: its homes, shops, plazas, and churches jammed side by side like Legos. With its abundance of Baroque Churches and Palaces, and pretty squares lines with palm trees, it’s one of the most romantic corners of Sicily.
Sure, visit the highlights, which include the magnificent Duomo di San Giorgio, and countless chapels, churches, monasteries, private palazzos, and cobblestoned narrow walkways.
But, Modica is also famous for the production of a special type of chocolate from ancient Aztecrecipes (”Xocòatl azteca”). Book a chocolate-making tour at Antica Dolceria Bonajuto, a sixth-generation chocolate factory, where you’ll learn all about the craft and what makes their chocolates stand out.
TOUR: Neapolis Archaeological Park, Syracuse
Syracuse is best known for the Archaeological Park of Neapolis, a UNESCO site that comprises a range of ancient monuments – both Greek and Roman. Begin at the 5th-century BCE Greek theater, the 16,000-seat amphitheater where the tragedies of Aeschylus were staged – in his presence – and is still in use today. (If you plan to attend a performance – bring a cushion to sit on. Stone benches are so not 21st Century comfy).
Walk into the cave-like Latomia del Paradiso (Paradise Quarry), the now overgrown shaft from which the white limestone used to build Syracuse was cut. Because of its excellent acoustics and shape, the quarry is known as the Ear of Dionysius.
The complex also includes the Roman amphitheater, the 1st-century BCE arena. While it once held wildly popular gladiator spectacles, today, it hosts musicals on its ancient stones.
WANDER: Ortigia Island, Syracuse
Wander narrow streets of Ortigia, a harbor island connected to the rest of Syracuse by small bridges. Do not miss the vibrant food market where all manner of foodstuff purveyors jostle for space – and attention – with loud, sing-song come-ons.
Second Oldest Mikveh in Europe
Deep in the historical center, along a narrow cobblestone street, there is a tiny museum connected to a hotel where you can find Europe’s most ancient Mikveh. An extraordinary discovery roughly 30 years ago, this mikveh, an ancient Jewish purification bath dating back to the 6th century BC, was hidden for over 500 years.
Found by chance during work on a luxury residence and hotel, it is 60 ft deep, accessed now via a slippery spiral staircase, by guided tour only. As your eyes adjust, you’ll see preserved stone tanks from which pure water flows. Among the few Jewish ritual baths in Europe that have remained intact, it is a unique testimony to the Jewish presence in Syracuse before the expulsion of 1492.
TOUR: Godfather Movie Locations
Most Godfather tours do take you to the tiny hilltop village of Savoca to visit the famous Bar Vitelli where Michael Corleone asked Apollonia’s father for her hand in marriage.
And from there you can also climb the hill to the church where the the Corleone wedding processional scenes were filmed.
But if you are really into the Godfather movies, you’ll have to hire a private guide (see our recommendation at the end of this post) to visit the mansion used as the Sicilian home of Michael Corleone where his first wife, Apollonia, died in a car bomb.
Owned by an older man who calls himself “The Baron” – this villa is not on the typical Godfather location tours. It’s definitely worth it, however, as he Baron show you stills of the stars and director Francis Ford Coppola who graced his compound while making the movies. After watching a short compilation of scenes shot here, you’ll tour the house. Make sure when booking a Sicilian Godfather tour that you’ll have access to this special place.
KAYAK: From Giardini Naxos Around Isola Bella
You’ll have a blast paddling with your Sicily Adventure Kayak Tour guide a few miles through the bluest crystal-clear water along the Taormina coast and around Isola Bella Bay. Sit-on-Top Kayaks are the perfect way to explore sea caves and rock formations. If this area and the islands looks familiar, it’s where many scenes from The White Lotus second season were filmed, including the beach, which is way, way, way down the mountain from the hotel.
VILLAGE TOUR/COOKING CLASS/DINNER: The Town of Motta Camastra With Le Mamme Del Borgo Cooking Class
The village of Motta Camastra – high atop a hill – with its population of roughly 600 people – has gained recognition for its authentic medieval architecture, preserved over centuries, and as a backdrop for the The Godfather films.
Sign up for a cooking class with Le Mamme Del Borgo, and you’ll begin your journey, accompanied by a local, by wandering through the village, where you might just drop in on the local barber, who clips the heads of neighbors and posts pictures of his visitors and customers on every inch of wall. (When we visited, he was “clipping hair” on a bald guy. Hilarious).
For a deep dive into local culture – and a darn good time – sign up for a cooking class with the local mamme (Le Mamme Del Borgo). These women, guardians of traditional Sicilian recipes, will guide youthrough the process of creating classic dishes from scratch (in our case, macaroni).
Kneed the dough, roll the pasta, help fry sweet treats for a classic Sicilian dessert. As you cook together, you’ll hear stories of their families and traditions, making this experience not just about food, but about connecting with the soul of Sicily.
Afterward, sit down to enjoy the fruits of your labor in a communal meal, savoring the flavors of your creations and the warmth of genuine Sicilian hospitality. A visit to Motta Camastra is more than a trip; it’s a journey into the heart of Sicilian life.
HIKE/EXPLORE: Mount Etna
Sicilians have a very personal relationship with the volcano, Mount Etna, which frequently erupts but is seldom destructive. This is good to know since you’ll most likely see clouds of smoke emanating from its summit.
Several tours run, if not right into the heart of Mother Nature’s fiery furnace, pretty damn close.
The best way to see a variety of aspects to the volcano is to hire a private guide. Yes, expensive, but worth it for the handholding and informative history and geological explanations.
As you ascend in altitude, the air grows crisp and the scent of volcanic minerals permeates the atmosphere. The drive is punctuated by dramatic vistas of volcanic craters, lava fields, and dense forests that have taken root on the mountain’s slopes. One of the most dramatic lava fields stems from explosive eruptions which began in late October 2002 and continued into 2003.
It produced violent explosions, ash plumes, and extensive lava flows that covered areas like the northern slopes. These areas, and the demarcation line between the lava field and land the lava never touched can be reached only by off road vehicles – so make sure your guide can drive you right to the site.
If you’re up to it, take a somewhat challenging hike along the non-active Sartorious craters, witnessing the stark contrast between the raw, volcanic wilderness and several copse of bright white Birch Trees, creating an otherworldly landscape.
EXPLORE: Taormina
Taormina, a medieval town set on a rocky terrace overlooking the Ionian Sea, used to be known just for its 3rd-century BCE Greek theater, where gladiators once battled; the 13th-century fortress-like Duomo; and grand Piazza Vittorio Emanuele.
But now, more tourists come due to The White Lotus effect. Yes, the hit show was based in this Sicilian town that clings to the side of a mountain – with the Four Seasons San Domenico a stand in for the fictional HBO Series hotel.
There’s plenty of upscale shopping to do on Taormina’s main street – where you can find a slew of Italian fashion design shops, like Jacob Cohen, whose jeans fly off he shelves at $745 apiece. While window shopping, grab a Gelato, cannoli, or other confections for a fraction of that.
EAT/GAWK: Bar Tarrisi, Castlemola
A phallus-themed bar and restaurant, anyone? This four-story Bar Tarrisi, 20 minutes up the hill from Taormina (in Castlemola), is known worldwide as the penis bar (and, to a lesser extent, for its Almond Wine). Every square inch of space, every surface, every stairstep, is packed with some form of the male genitalia. The pizza may be a bit flaccid, but everything else is assuredly not.
Where to Stay in Sicily
STAY: Rocco Forte Verdura Resort Sciacca
If you’re a golfer, you’re in luck. Many come to Sicily just to stay and play at the Rocco Forte Verdura Resort‘s two 18-hole, and one 9-hole courses. But even if you’ve never held a golf club, this gorgeous hotel on the Mediterranean Sea sooths your tired sightseeing feet with a large outdoor pool, a beach, and therapeutic water treatment basins in its stand-alone spa.
STAY: Four Seasons San Domenico, Taormino
Calling all White Lotus Fans: if you want to sit at the bar or play the piano in the lounge – or even just enter the Four Seasons San Domenico to see them – you must be a paying guest. The hotel managers grew tired of policing the crowds that infiltrated the lobby and lounge – disturbing the guests and staff – just for an Instagram shot. So, the hotel is off limits, unless you’re staying here.
Judging by the number of people checking in, there are plenty who can afford the astronomical rates. (Full disclosure, that includes me. But my friends and I skimped elsewhere on our trip to book the smallest rooms here, which still cost in the thousands per night).
There is no denying the Four Seasons Taormino is a special place – with patios and pool overlooking the sea, we’ll-get-it-for-you service, and amazing breakfasts – fostering the fantasy that you are the center of the universe, if only for a night.
Private Guide Recommendation
Our guide/driver, Paolo Mortellaro, took our girlfriend group of four on an amazing, immersive, flawless, fun, insider, tour of Sicily. I recommend him highly – and no, I’m not being compensated in any way for recommending him. His company, Handy Sicily, utilizes Mercedes limos and mini-buses to whisk you and your group around Sicily in style.
